Costume Books
Basics of Corset
Building: a handbook for beginners - $29.95 
Linda Sparks. This excellent guide has 4 parts: Tools & Materials, Building a Corset (working with bones & busks, setting grommets), Construction Techniques, and Alterations & Fit. Clear photos & diagrams illustrate various techniques & guide you through construction. Hardcover, 76pp, glossary. St Martin’s
Bedlah, Baubles, and Beads - $21.00
Dawn Devine. Focuses on the ‘cabaret’ style so common in the US. Discusses designing & crafting the elaborate bra & belts sets worn by belly dancers. Full of useful & thought-provoking information for the dance costumer. Tr pb; spiral bound, 132pp, biblio & resources list. Ibexa Press
Beijing Opera Costume -
$50.00
Alexandra B Bonds.
Focusing on the costume of Jingju, this
book provides theory & analysis of the costumes & the methods of their
selection as well as info on embroidery, patterns, & construction. Chapters
on theory are followed by material on individual costumes, with their
historical background, accessories, makeup, & hairstyles. HC, 250 color &
b/w photos & pattern drafts, glossary, index, notes, bibliog, more. Univ Hawaii
Book of Kimono: the
Complete Guide to Style and Wear - $28.00
Norio Yamanaka. This practical and attractive book contains
the basic knowledge and vocabulary needed to select and put on a kimono and
obi. All kimono are basically made from a single pattern, but a number of
variations must be considered, depending on the occasion. This book gives
guidelines to making these choices, and the way to dress in a kimono is
carefully described & illustrated. Includes men’s garments, care, &
etiquette. Tr pb, dw, 139pp, numerous diagrams & photos, glossary, index.
Kodansha.
Chinese Clothing -
$12.95
This slender book is packed with information. It serves as an introduction to some of the many varieties of traditional Chinese clothing, dress, & costume adornments. The articles of clothing of past dynasties are but one chapter of China’s long history. They reflect the economic and political life of past centuries, and provide valuable insight into everyday life in ancient China. HC, 4”x6”, 78pp, photos on almost every page, many in color. Long River Press.
Chinese Minority Costume - $39.95
Oversized photo book illustrating traditional ethnic attire of China’s 55 minority groups. Provides overview of men’s & women’s garb, with brief explanations of how clothes are made. Bilingual, 218pp, photos almost every page, very brief biblio. China Intercontinental
Chinese Traditional
Costumes & Ornaments - $39.95
Zang Yingchun. Similar in format to Chinese Minority Costume, this volume is chronologically arranged. Using statues, funerary sculpture, paintings, and extant garments & objects, the book recreates clothing of historical China. Covers Qin (21st century BCE) to modern Republic of China (1949 CE). Lavishly illo’d, with color photos on almost every page. Tr pb, 190 pp. China Intercontinental Press
Corsets: Historical Patterns
& Techniques -$35.00
Jill Salen. Patterns &
techniques for over 20 historically correct corsets, ranging from the 1750s to 1950,
from boned corsets, ribbon corsets & basques to satin corsets. Each project
includes pattern, finished drawing, close-up photos of historic item. Includes
2 step-by-step projects (hand-stitched pre-1850 corset & machine-stitched post-1850
corset). Tr pb, 128 pp.Quite Specific Media
Costume 1066 to the Present - $19.95
John Peacock. A guide to English costume design and history. This handy guide
is divided by monarchs’ reigns, and shows primarily upper-class attire. Each
page features eight outfits, four male and four female, and includes useful
notes detailing important or unusual features of each garment. Sketches are
based on surviving clothing, contemporary paintings, and photos. 8½ x11, 135
pages. Thames & Hudson.
Costuming from the
Hip - $21.00
Dawn Devine. This book is a comprehensive reference for all types of Middle Eastern dance costuming. Readers will like the over 200 illustrations, historical patterns, construction techniques and the hundreds of hints and tips. Takes reader step-by-step through body measurement, costume research, pattern layouts, fitting, and accessorizing. Tr pb; spiral bound, 114pp, biblio & resources list. Ibexa Press
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Cut My Cote - $8.95 |
Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450 (2nd Edition): Medieval Finds
>From Excavations in London - $37.95
Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard. Catalogues, discusses, and illustrates over
1780 medieval dress accessories recovered from excavations in London. Girdles,
buckles, brooches, buttons, hair accessories, pins, beads, chains, pendants,
rings, purses, cosmetic sets, and needle cases were among the wealth of
well-preserved finds recovered from these excavations in the City of London.
The excavations provide an accurate framework within which to date the
recovered items. This book presents the opportunity for statistical analysis of
dress accessories based on the sheer abundance of detailed information. Catalog
entries for all 1784 finds. A treasure-trove of detailed historical
information, it offers sociological insight into the clothing choices of the
"ordinary man/woman" during the three hundred years from 1150 through
1450 AD. The tome is a "must" for any serious medievalist and/or
costumer. Fully illustrated: twelve colored plates, numerous black-and-white
photos, hundreds of detailed line drawings. Notes, charts, extensive
bibliography. 410 pp, pb. Boydell & Brewer Press.
Dress in Anglo-Saxon England - $40.00
Gale R Owen-Crocker. Revised & expanded edition. Considerably updated,
this new edition focuses on English dress from the fifth to the eleventh
centuries. It draws evidence from archeology, text and art (manuscripts,
ivories, metalwork, stone sculpture, mosaics), and also from re-enactors’
experience. It examines archaeological textiles, cloth production and the
significance of imported cloth, and foreign fashions. Dress is discussed as a
marker of gender, ethnicity, status and social role – in the context of a pagan
burial, dress for holy orders, bequests of clothing, commissioning a kingly
wardrobe, and much else… (Pub note) 12 b/w, 13 color plates, 140 b/w drawings,
glossary of clothing terms, possible cutting plan for 11th century
gown. HC, 408 pp, extensive biblio & index. Boydell & Brewer
Dressing the Past - $50.00
Edited
by Margarita Gleba et al. A collection of essays dealing with how we think
people dressed in the past. Includes material on the Minoans, Scythians, &
Romans, as well as medieval saints, Vikings, & Renaissance noblemen. Pb.
Oxbow
Early Highland Dress – CD - $12.95
Matthew A.C. Newsome. "When one begins to research the history of
Highland dress, it quickly becomes apparent that prior to the 17th
century reliable information becomes hard to find…the historic record is not
nearly as complete for this earlier period …In this little volume, I hope to
share the fruits of that research, dispel some myths, and with any luck inspire
the reader to further investigation…" The author’s own words speak
eloquently. Includes material on wrapping the Great Kilt, Pre-Culloden Tartans,
Gaelic footwear. Acrobat readable (included).
Scotpress
Embellished Bras:
Basic Techniques - $20.00
Dawn Devine. This ‘workshop in a book’ demonstrates the techniques for transforming a lingerie bra into a finished costume piece. Easy-to-follow processed is presented through clear, step-by-step photos and illustrations. An excellent resource for novice sewers and professional designers alike. Tr pb, saddle-stapled, 64pp. Ibexa Press
Evolution of Fashion; Pattern & Cut 1066 to 1930 - $40.00
Hill & Bucknell. Male & female outfit for each monarch's reign/20 yr
interval. Patterns 1/8"=1". Brief discussion of fabrics, accessories,
underwear. 222pp, 10x13, paper. Drama.
Fashion in Medieval France - $75.00
Sarah-Grace Heller. Medieval French culture supplies the context for this case study of ‘systematic fashion’, demonstrating desire for novelty, rejection of the old in favor of the new, and criticism of outrageous display. Texts from the 12th & 13th centuries describe how cleverly-cut garments or unique possessions make a character distinctive; they even offer advice on how to look attractive on a budget, and spin fantasies of gaining enough spending money to shop for oneself. Such descriptions suggest fashion’s presence, yet accepted notions date the birth of Western fashion to the mid-14th century revolution in men’s clothing styles. A fashion system was surely present prior to this ‘revolution’ in styles, to facilitate such changes: abundant evidence for the existence of such a system is cogently set out in this study. HC, dj, 206pp, 13p biblio, index. Boydell & Brewer
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Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince - $35.00 |
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From Woad to Blue -
$5.00
Christine Krupp. Takes us through the classical references & evidence for woad use in Medieval Europe, then covers growing woad (period & modern practices) couching (fermenting the woad), the chemistry of woad, and finishes with dyeing recipes, both historic and modern. Appendix: classical references, woad’s use as art pigment. Biblo, resources. Pb, saddle-stapled, 68pp. Some b/w illus. SCA
From The Neck Up - $25.00
Most complete book on hat-making now available. Techniques explained
step-by-step. More than 400 illos. Historical & modern patterns, list of
suppliers. MadHatter Press.
From Turban to Toe
Ring - $21.00
Dawn Devine. Explores the various layers and elements that compose the tribal-style costume. From jewelry & cosmetics to cholis, skirts, and pants, this book is loaded with directions for designing & making garments. With over 300 illustrations & diagrams, this is an essential addition to your reference library. Tr pb; spiral bound, 96ppbiblio & resources list, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press
Headdresses of the
Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries - $5.00
Marie Vibbert (Lyonnete Vibert) In this pamphlet, Vibert describes in loving detail hoods, templets, and cauls, and their evolution into the elaborate horned and veiled headdresses most people think of as medieval. Separate chapters describe constructing cauls, internally supported cauls (‘the heart-shaped headdress’), and hennins. Pb, saddle-stapled, 52pp, biblio, endnotes, annotated list of illustrations. SCA
High Fashion in the Church: The Place of Church Vestments
in the History of Art from the 9th to the 19th Century –
PB $60
Pauline Johnstone. The decoration of church vestments, the ceremonial garments worn by the clergy at the celebration of the Mass, has always been a matter of high fashion. The crafts of silk weaving and embroidery, which provide the technical means for the decoration of these garments, have held a prominent place in the changing fashions in the arts since the early Middle Ages. Since that time they have been used in the service of the Church as well as for secular purposes. Appendix, glossary, bibliography, index. PB, 207pp, 102 color illos, 176 b/w illos. Quite Specific Media
Kimono: Fashioning Culture - $26.95
Liza Dalby. Delves into the history, aesthetics, and cultural and social
mores of kimono from its seventh century Chinese origins to its current
role as the national dress of Japan. With impeccable scholarship, Dalby
contends that "dress can never be analyzed separately from the universe of
possibilities that shape its particular historical meaning" and that
clothing, wearer, and culture are nowhere more integrated into a cohesive whole
than in Japan. Part I explores this interplay of clothing and culture, while
Part II moves on to a study of kimono in the modern world. Part III
looks at two important developments of kimono: Heian imperial court
dress of the ninth to the eleventh centuries and Genroku urban and mercantile
traditions of the seventeenth century. The final chapter of Part III, Kimono
and Geisha, looks at length at these so uniquely Japanese traditions.
Dalby’s passion for her subject matter comes through in her lucid, engaging
prose. Lavish photographs and illustrations highlight the beauty of kimono.
The narrative explores the subtle nuances of color, design, material, and
decoration that clearly mark the social and economic status of the wearer for anyone
with the knowledge needed to interpret the signs. Illustration and narrative
notes, extensive bibliography, index and glossary. 384 PP, 8¼ by 8¼ inches pb.
University of Washington Press.
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Little Costume Workbook Series - $8.95 (each) Little Bodice Construction |
Making Elizabethan
Gloves - $5.00
Franchesa V Havas. After a brief discussion of the status of glove wear and the use of gloves in period, the author proceeds to instruct us in the mystery of taking proper measurements, creating a pattern and mock-up glove, and then on to the actual glove construction. A unique resource. 13pp annotated biblio. Pb, saddle-stapled, 56pp, many b/w illus & patterns. SCA
Maternity Fashion -
$22.50
Doretta Davanzo Poli. A world history of maternity fashion from 1266 to 1980. Hardcover, 119 pp, 83 color photos & illus, 76 b/w illus. Quite Specific Media
Medieval Clothing
& Textiles Volume One - $49.95
Owen-Crocker & Netherton, eds. First volume in series, interdisciplinary in approach. Broad geographical & temporal coverage. Volume contains Anglo-Saxon embroidery, regulation of clerical dress, the tippet, evidence for dress & textiles in English wills. HC, 192pp, b/w illus, short bk reviews. Boydell & Brewer
Medieval Clothing &
Textiles Volume Two – $47.95
Owen-Crocker & Netherton, eds. Articles: Dress & Accessories in the ‘The Wooing of Becfhola’, Embroidered Word: Text in the Bayeux Tapestry, Making Textiles in 12th Century French Romance, Paris in the Int’l Textile Markets of 13th/14th Centuries, Apparel & Impoverishment in Medieval & Early Modern England, Textile cleaning Techniques in Renaissance Europe, Dual Identity of the English Embroidered Jacket. HC, dust jacket, 190p. Index, ‘Recent Books of Interest, 23 illos , extensive notes. Boydell & Brewer
Medieval Clothing
& Textiles Volume Three $60.00
Netherton & Owen-Crocker, eds. Articles: Cushioning Medieval Life: Domestic Textiles in Anglo-Saxon England, Matter of Style: Clerical Vestments in the Anglo-Saxon Church, Saints in Split-Stitch: Representations of Saints in Opus Anglicanum Vestments, Anti-Red Shift-To the Dark Side: Colour Changes in Flemish Luxury Woollens, Finishing of English Woollens, Poverty & Richly Decorated Garments: a Re-evaluation of their Significance, ‘Set on Yowre Hondys”: 15th Century instructions for Fingerloop Braiding, Tiny Textiles Hidden In Books… Multiple Strand Bookmarkers, ‘She Hath Over Grown All that Ever She Hath’: Children’s Clothing in the Lisle Letters. Also includes a list of recent books of interest, and the contents of previous volumes. HC, dw, 221pp, index. Tables, b/w photos & illus. Boydell & Brewer
Medieval Clothing & Textiles
Volume Four $60.00
Netherton & Owen-Crocker, eds. Articles: ‘From Flax to Linen in the Medieval Rus Lands’, ‘Scarlet Clothing…in the Njals Saga’, ‘Wandering Wimple’, ‘From Head to Hand to Arm’, Visual Textiles’, ‘Cap of St Birgitta’, ‘View from Herjolfsnes’, more. HC, dw, 227 pp, index. Boydell & Brewer
Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo
e la sua influenza - $110.00
Roberta Orsi Landini, Bruna Niccoli. Italian, with facing English text. Lavish color photos of period portraits focus heavily on the elaborate garments. A brief biography of Eleonora is followed by chapters on her style, costume in Medici ceremonies, and surviving clothing. Further chapters concentrate on individual garments, divided by types, such as: petticoat, farthingale and doublet, gown, jerkin and maternity gown; slippers, shoes, stockings and garters, etc. Includes chapters on tailors & embroiderers, and Florentine textile production. Lush, amazing; comparable to Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe. HC, dust jacket, 252p, glossary, list of illos, biblio, 35p chronological inventory of Eleonora’s wardrobe, list of documents cited, family tree of Cosimo I de’ Medici. Copious notes follow each chapter. 9 ½ x12 ¼. Univ de Caen
Old Irish & Highland Dress CD - $12.95
H.F. McClintock. Facsimile of 1943 edition. Thorough discussion of this
hard-to-locate material, with references from 1169 onward. Many b/w illos, some
also in color. The source and date of each illustration is cited. 188pp.
Scotpress.
This title is no longer available in book form, only as a CD.
Pants for the Dance
- $10.00
Dawn Devine. Addresses the exciting design possibilities for one of the most ubiquitous but unsung garments in the dancer’s wardrobe: pants! This book introduces a simple method for using body measurements to draft patterns that fit. Go beyond the basic harem style and explore a variety of options for creating pants for male and female dancers 8/12x7 pb, saddle-stapled, 40pp, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press
Patterns for Costume Accessories - $35.00
Levine & McGee. Patterns for period & contemporary accessories, including hats, neckwear, gloves & gauntlets, purses & reticules. Excellent basic patterns. Some post-period material, but a useful resource. Tr pb, 182pp, 83 patterns & 150 illos. Quite Specific Media
Patterns for Theatrical Costume - $35.00
Katherine S Holkeboer. A classic work. Ancient Egypt to 1915. Presents
easily-enlarged patterns for accurate period silhouettes, and suggested
modifications to sleeves, head-gear, etc. 8½ x11, 350pp, pb. Drama Book.
Patterns of Fashion
Janet Arnold. The cut and construction of clothes for men and women. Photos
of actual garments & art showing details. Intricate graphed patterns for
enlargement 128p, 15x11.
1560 - 1620 - $39.95
1660 - 1860 - $39.95
1860 - 1940 - $39.95
NEW – Volume 4 – Cut and Construction of linen shirts, smocks,
neckwear, headwear, and accessories for men and women, 1540-1660. - $49.95
Additional material by Jenny
Tiramani & Santini M Levy. Same format, 128 pp, 56 color photos, 86 b/w
illus. Quite Special Media.
Persian Court
Costume and Dance in the 16th Century - $5.00
Hollie Williams/Mistress Blodwen ferch Maergred. "Persian costume is
one of the most well-documented styles of Middle Eastern costume of the SCA
time period. This article is a basic overview of the costume found in the court
illuminations of 16th century Persia. … Because dance is a
performing art, it is very difficult to reconstruct. Using visual depictions of
dance and music from the era, it is possible to take a scholarly look at the
art form of the female court dancers of medieval Persia…" (Author’s note).
40pp, 8-1/2x5-1/2, saddle-stapled. Biblio, list of terms, b/w sketches &
line drawings. SCA
Purses in Pieces: Archeological Finds of late medieval
and 16th-century leather purses - $40.00
Olaf Goubitz. Specifically, purses, pouches, bags and cases in the Netherlands. Another of Goubitz’s superb books, showing the actual restored purse plus sketches of its outlines and period illustrations showing similar items being worn. There are also some reconstructed items using modern leather.9” x 11”, perfect-bound, 118pp, brief notes & references, b/w sketches & photos on virtually every page. SPA Itgevers
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Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock't – $165.00 |
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Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of
Draping - $30.00
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Skirting the Issues - $10.00
Dawn Devine. Skirts are an important garment type for dancers, no matter what style of costume they choose. This booklet is filled with design ideas that go beyond the standard ‘three-panel’ skirt. From gores to godets, tiers to panels, this book includes directions for turning your body measurements into customized patterns. 81/2x7 pb, saddle-stapled,48pp, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press
Stepping Through Time
-$75.00
Olaf Coubitz et alia. Presents a typological catalog of footwear dating from 800-1800 AD, based on his analysis of an important assemblage of shoes recovered from excavations at Dordrecht (Netherlands). Examines evidence for shoe types in prehistoric Europe & the NW provinces of the Roman Empire. Discussion of styles & technology, including height standards, material, patterns, stitches, soles, etc. PB, 396pp, many b/w illus. David Brown
Style File: a visual vocabulary of Middle Eastern dance
costume - $12.00
Dawn Devine. Designed with the beginning dancer in mind, this illustrated handbook helps you to identify the most popular styles of dance attire. From specific ethnic ensembles to popular stylistic themes, this booklet defines and describes a broad range of costumes, making it a very useful reference tool. 8 ½ x 7, pb, saddle-stapled, 40pp. Ibexa Press
Textiles and Clothing -
$37.95
Crowfoot, Pritchard & Staniland. Newly reissued. Finds include knitting,
tapestries, silk hair-nets, and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic, and
Italian fabrics. These objects reveal considerable information on the cut and
construction of clothing as well. This highly readable account provides a
wealth of new insights on fashions, clothing, and textile industries of
medieval England and Europe. Trade paper, 250pp, 32 color illus, 132 b/w illus,
91 line drawings. Boydell & Brewer
Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th Century
Dress - $35.00
Nina Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm-Davies. Techniques & patterns for making historically accurate period clothing. Includes a social history of clothing in the 16th century, discussion of materials used, & a consideration of ‘people’s financial & social relationships with their clothes.’ Considerable emphasis on clothing of ordinary people. Advice on choosing materials, construction methods, and sewing kit. Based on 15 years of practical experience in making period costume for daily use at historic sites, this book promises to be a valuable tool & resource for many years to come. Tr pb, 160pp, 80 illos, 100 line drawings, 36 patterns with step-by-step instructions & photos of final garments. Quite Specific Media
A Veiled Reference - $5.00
Lisa Ford, Theresa Sherman, Melinda Sherbring. The 1st section of
this book discusses Medieval & Renaissance women’s veils in Western Europe.
The 2nd contains information on the various styles: how to
construct, wear, & secure them, with patterns, sketches, & photos. Each
example is carefully referenced to its historical source. The final section
considers the history & use of pins, especially in headgear. A remarkably
thorough & useful pamphlet. 56p. SCA.
Viking Clothing –
$37.50
Thor Ewing. This accessible new book is the first to tackle the question of what the Vikings wore, drawing on evidence from art, archeology, literature, & linguistics to arrive at a fresh understanding of the nature of Viking clothing. Includes an overview of textiles & dyeing, an exploration of cloth production & clothing in the context of the society as a whole. Includes a detailed consideration of male & female outfits & a new interpretation of the suspended dress. Biblio, index, numerous b/w photos, diagrams, patterns, & contemporary drawings, 14 color photos. Tr Pb, 192pp. Tempus
Women's Costume of
the Near and Middle East - $45.95
Jennifer Scarce. Examines the evolution of women’s dress within the
geographic and historic confines of the Ottoman Empire. Now, for the first
time, the interested reader can have an in-depth look at the variety and
richness of women’s clothing in the many regions governed by the Ottomans
during the six centuries of their reign. This scholarly work discusses both the
distinct differences and the underlying similarities of feminine apparel in the
diverse cultural and geographic territories that formed the Ottoman Empire. The
author’s knowledgeable prose is amply illustrated by one hundred twenty-eight
black-and-white photos. Twenty-one diagrams show cutting patterns and layout
for select items of clothing. List of illustrations, list of diagrams, chapter
notes, select bibliography. 192 pp, pb. Routledge
Women’s Garb in
Northern Europe - $5.00
Christina Krupp & Carolyn Priest-Dorman. Covers women’s garb in Northern Europe 450-1000 CE, focusing on Frisians, Angles, Franks, Balts, Vikings, & Finns. Although brief, this remains an excellent, basic source. 71pp, pamphlet. SCA
Worldwide History
of Dress - $100.00
Patricia R Anawalt. Every notable geographical region, historical period, and style of dress is covered here. The book discusses all aspects of dress and accessories, including face and body modification. More than 1,000 illustrations include both vintage and modern-day photos of local people in local clothing, color plates of museum quality artifacts, historic paintings and other artwork, line drawings, and more than 50 specially commissioned maps. Hardcover, 608pp, 1,100 illus (800 in color). Thames & Hudson.
Woven Into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland - $49.95
Else Ostergaard. The book offers an account of the 1921 find of textiles in
Herjolfsnaes, Greenland. The garments had been used as swaddling to wrap around
corpses. The weather conditions preserved the textiles extremely well, &
the result was a spectacular find, and amazing insights into sewing &
weaving techniques as well as the materials used in the garments’ manufacture.
Heavily illustrated in color & b/w. HC, index, biblio,
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