Art of Manipulating Fabric. $29.95
Colette Wolff. The possibilities for three-dimensional manipulation of fabric - gathering, pleating, tucking, shirring, and quilting woven materials - are seemingly endless. To describe them all would be to describe the entire history of sewing. The author has set herself just this task, and she succeeds brilliantly. Working from the simplest possible form - a flat piece of cloth and a threaded needle - she categorizes all major dimensional techniques, shows how they are related, and gives examples of variations both traditional and modern. The result is an encyclopedia of techniques that resurface, reshape, restructure and reconstruct fabric. Trade paper, perfect bound, 312 pp, b/w illus throughout.
Basic Craft of Turnshoes - $5.00
John Frazier. Instructions for making your own period shoes. Including duct tape pattern making, cutting a wooden last, materials and tools, and finishing with ties and buckles. Paper, 82pp, references. SCA
Basics of Corset Building: a handbook for beginners - $29.95
Linda Sparks. This excellent guide has 4 parts: Tools & Materials, Building a Corset (working with bones & busks, setting grommets), Construction Techniques, and Alterations & Fit. Clear photos & diagrams illustrate various techniques & guide you through construction. Hardcover, 76pp, glossary. St Martin’s
Before the Kilt - $29.95
Gerald A John Kelly. The purpose of this book is to use 16th century sources to provide in a single volume the most comprehensive and accurate description so far available of 16th century Irish Gaelic and Scottish Gaelic clothing. Accordingly, this book presents and examines the watercolors, woodcuts, and manuscript illuminations of Lucas de Heere, Albrecht Dürer, the Ashmoleum Museum, Raphael Holinshed, John Derrick, and more. It also presents and examines the reports on Gaelic dress written in the 16th century by Nicolay d'Arfeville, John Lesley, Robert Lindsay of Pitscottie, John Major, Jean de Beaugué, George Buchanan, Lughaidh Ó Cléirigh, and William Camden. As a result of this extensive process of compilation and analysis, the author specifically identifies the most accurate 16th century illustrations of Irish Gaelic and Scottish Gaelic clothing. He also presents damning evidence that the most widespread images (and long considered the most important images) of 16th century Irish men and women are, to a large degree, a fraud perpetrated by a single 16th century propagandist - John Derrick. As an added bonus, the author includes a full chapter devoted to the law, custom, tradition, and worldview of the Irish Gaeil and Scottish Gaeil who wore these clothes. Paperback, 124 pages, 22 full color illus, 25 b/w. Druid Press
Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques -$35.00
Jill Salen. Patterns & techniques for over 20 historically correct corsets, ranging from the 1750s to 1950, from boned corsets, ribbon corsets & basques to satin corsets. Each project includes pattern, finished drawing, close-up photos of historic item. Includes 2 step-by-step projects (hand-stitched pre-1850 corset & machine-stitched post-1850 corset). Tr pb, 128 pp. Quite Specific Media
Cut My Cote - $9.95
Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450 (2nd Edition): Medieval Finds
>From Excavations in London - $37.95
Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard. Catalogues, discusses, and illustrates over 1780 medieval dress accessories recovered from excavations in London. Girdles, buckles, brooches, buttons, hair accessories, pins, beads, chains, pendants, rings, purses, cosmetic sets, and needle cases were among the wealth of well-preserved finds recovered from these excavations in the City of London. The excavations provide an accurate framework within which to date the recovered items. This book presents the opportunity for statistical analysis of dress accessories based on the sheer abundance of detailed information. Catalog entries for all 1784 finds. A treasure-trove of detailed historical information, it offers sociological insight into the clothing choices of the "ordinary man/woman" during the three hundred years from 1150 through 1450 AD. The tome is a "must" for any serious medievalist and/or costumer. Fully illustrated: twelve colored plates, numerous black-and-white photos, hundreds of detailed line drawings. Notes, charts, extensive bibliography. 410 pp, pb. Boydell & Brewer Press.
Dress in Anglo-Saxon England - $60.00
Gale R Owen-Crocker. Revised & expanded edition. Considerably updated, this new edition focuses on English dress from the fifth to the eleventh centuries. It draws evidence from archeology, text and art (manuscripts, ivories, metalwork, stone sculpture, mosaics), and also from re-enactors’ experience. It examines archaeological textiles, cloth production and the significance of imported cloth, and foreign fashions. Dress is discussed as a marker of gender, ethnicity, status and social role – in the context of a pagan burial, dress for holy orders, bequests of clothing, commissioning a kingly wardrobe, and much else… (Pub note) 12 b/w, 13 color plates, 140 b/w drawings, glossary of clothing terms, possible cutting plan for 11th century gown.
Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe - $45.00
Ulinka Rublack. In 1526, Matthaus Schwarz, head accountant of the Fugger merchant company, commissioned the first of 136 portraits of himself in his finest clothes. These portraits, showing him from infancy to age 63, remain a tremendous resource illustrating the changing fashions and suitable garments for a gentleman advancing in society and maturity. 23 of these portraits, as well 133 other illustrations, form the backbone of this intriguing volume. This book shows how clothes made history and how history can be about clothes. The author shows how fashion was a striking and not just an elite phenomenon. This brilliantly illustrated book draws on a range of insights across the disciplines and allows us to see an entire period in new ways. Trade paperback, 25 p select bibliography, extensive notes & index, 354pp, numerous color & b/w illus. Oxford University Press.
Embellishments - $35.00
Astrida Schaeffer, foreword by Lisa MacFarlane. This book highlights ten Victorian dresses from the “Embellishments” exhibit at UNH, and analyzes their design elements in depth. Each item has been closely examined, taking advantage of places where threads have loosened over time to peer at the back side of trims, searching garment interiors, and studying fabric grain lines and seams for clues on construction. Lush, full color photos of full-length gowns and close-up views of construction details are paired with descriptions, clear diagrams, and instructions for a book you can use and enjoy on many levels. Tr paper, glossary, appendix of stitch diagrams, garments and period print resources list, 107pp. Great Life Press.
Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook - $35
Deborah Robson & Carol Ekarius. This book is aimed at both spinners, weavers, and other fiber artists, and also at animal raisers. It is a one-of-a-kind j photographic encyclopedia of more than 200 animals and the fibers they produce. It covers almost every breed of sheep known, as well as camelids, goats, bison, horses, rabbits, and dogs. Each spread includes photos of the animal, its raw fleece, cleaned fleece, spun yarn, and samples of that yarn knit and woven. Both authors are well-known crafters. Hardcover, 448pp. Storey.
From The Neck Up - $25.00
Most complete book on hat-making now available. Techniques explained step-by-step. More than 400 illos. Historical & modern patterns, list of suppliers. Mad Hatter Press.
Hispanic Costume, 1480 - 1530. - $29.00
Ruth Matilda Anderson. Covering an important transitional period in Iberian history, this book is essential for students of the area. Material on both outer and inner garments is supplied. Covers every aspects of dress, from headgear and hair styles to shoes and hose. Discussions are accompanied by a multitude of photographs of sculpture and period art. Exceptionally clear pictures make this a very useful title. Impressive notes, bibliog., and index. Cloth, 269 pp, 569 b/w, 8 color illos. Hispanic Society
Hooked-Clasps & eyes – $39.95
Brian Read. A classification and catalogue of sharp- or blunt-hooked clasps and miscellaneous hooks, eyes, loops, rings or toggles, cloak-fasteners, and scarf-hooks. The author explains both textually and illustratively what is known about when, where and how these objects were used and their manufacture. Includes both base- and precious-metal examples, from Roman through late post-medieval. Each item has a sketch and/or photo, and is given a description of material and provenance. Especially useful for metalworkers! TR paper, 238pp, bibliog. Portcullis Publishing.
Illuminated Manuscripts of Belgium and the Netherlands in the H. Paul Getty Museum - $19.95
Thomas Kren. During the 15th & 16th centuries, the area now known as Belgium and the Netherlands produced one of the greatest flowerings of the art of illumination anywhere in Europe. The region’s colorful, naturalistically painted books were eagerly sought. This collection contains works by the finest, most original artists, made for the most discerning patrons. Pb, 96pp, 85 color illus. Getty
Illuminated Manuscripts of Germany and Central Europe - $19.95
Thomas Kren. Using the same format as its sister volume on Belgian and Netherlandish manuscripts, this book offers useful guides to clothing in period. Tr paper, 110 color illus, 132pp. Getty
Imagining the Past in France: History in manuscript painting, 1250 – 1500. - $49.95
Elizabeth Morrison & Anne D, Hedeman. In this period, the most important & original work was being done in secular manuscripts. This volume celebrates the vivid historical imagery produced then. The images enabled the past to come alive before the eyes of medieval readers, relating the adventures of epic figures of the past. 55 manuscripts, plus medieval objects ranging from tapestries to ivory boxes, are presented here. An exhibition of the same name will be at the Getty from 11/16/11 to 2/6/12. Full color throughout. 384pp, 9x12 inches; 23 p bibliog., index of names & texts, index of works of art. Getty
In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion - $75
Anna Reynolds. For those truly hooked on Tudor and Stuart garments, this fabulous book brings you amazing illustrations of the garb. The glorious pictures fill whole pages. The detail is marvelous. Often, a whole portrait is shown, then a close-up of it, then a close-up of the close-up. On a miniature painted of Elizabeth I, you can see the little drops of enamel and the tiny jewels glued into her crown. Areas of interest: reenacting and historic costumes, needlework, history and portraiture. By far, the most important word in the title of the book is ART. Because there is a dearth of extant clothing from the 16th and 17th centuries, the author relies on the paintings of the day to illustrate the items of dress. The front cover tells you everything: it's all about the style and how it was conveyed in the over-the-top luxury of the Tudor and Stuart dynasties. Hardcover, dust jacket, 288 pp, full color photos. Royal Trust Collection.
The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII - $30
Caroline Johnson. From the producers of The Tudor Tailor comes a new title! Provides a vivid picture of Henry VIII’s early court, using evidence from early warrant and account books in The National Archives. These previously unpublished documents reveal a wealth of fascinating material about expenditures on garments for servants in the king’s household. The book focuses on middle-ranking men between 1485 and 1513. The materials and clothes which they were issued are described and reconstructed. Contains detailed patterns, practical instructions, line drawings and color photos. This is an essential guide to men’s clothing in the Sixteenth Century. Tr pb, 48pp, footnotes & sources. Fat Goose Press.
Medieval Clothing & Textiles Volume Seven - $50.00
Robin Netherton & Gale Owens-Crocker. Focuses largely on the British Isles: dress terms in The Mabinogian and The Pearl, a study of a 13th century royal bride’s trousseau, an investigation into the ‘open surcoat’, a survey of cloth exports from late medieval London, and more. Hardcover, 272pp, b/w illus. Boydell & Brewer
Medieval Clothing & Textiles, Volume Eight – $50.00
Robin Netherton & Gale Owens-Crocker, editors. Continues the series’ tradition of bringing together work on clothing & textiles from across Europe. It has a strong focus on gold subjects, including 6th-century German burials containing sumptuous ornaments and bands brocaded with gold; the textual evidence for recycling such gold borders & bands in the later Anglo-Saxon period, and a semantic classification of words relating to gold in multilingual medieval Britain. Hc, 184pp, 24 b/w illus & 14 line drawings.
Medieval Clothing & Textiles Volume NINE - $60
Robin Netherton & Gale Owen-Crocker. Topics in this volume range widely throughout the European middle ages. Three contributions concern terminology for dress. Two deal with multicultural medieval Apulia: an examination of clothing terms in surviving marriage contracts from the tenth to the fourteenth century, and a close focus on an illuminated document made for a prestigious wedding. There is an analysis of clothing materials from Norway and Sweden according to gender and social distribution. Further papers consider the economic uses of cloth and clothing: wool production and the dress of the Cistercian community at Beaulieu Abbey based on its 1269-1270 account book, and the use of clothing as pledge or payment in medieval Ireland. In addition, there is a consideration of the history of dagged clothing and its negative significance to moralists, and of the painted hangings that were common in homes of all classes in the sixteenth century. Hardcover, 11 b/w & 7 line illus, 192 pp. Boydell & Brewer
Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns - $50
Else Ostergard, Anna Norgard & Lilli Fransen. This volume begins with a short introduction to the amazing finds of garments from the Norse settlement of Herjolfnes in Greenland. It then features chapters on technique – production of the thread, dyeing, weaving techniques, cutting and sewing. Also included are measurements and drawings of garments, hoods, and stockings, with sewing instructions. A practical guide to making your own medieval Norse garment. HC, 200pp, illus. Aarhus University Press.
Metal Buttons c.900 B.C. – c. AD 1700 - $35.00
Brian Read. Among dress accessories, buttons are probably the most ubiquitous. Until recently, examples prior to 1700 were rare. However, technology, dedication, and hard work, have reveals a remarkable range of button-like objects and early metal buttons. In this book, metal button-like objects prior to 1700 are subjected to a detailed manufactory analysis, each being described both textually and illustratively. Serious garment historians and metalworkers alike will find this useful and fascinating. TR paper, 109pp, photos & sketches of each object described, bibliog. Portcullis Publishing
Moda a Firenze – Cosimo I de Medici’s Style - $129.00
Roberta Orsi Landini. Using the same format as the companion volume of Eleanora di Toledo, this magnificent book brings us the garments of the great Cosimo. Lavishly illustrated, hardcover w/dust jacket, bilingual, 310pp, color photos throughout. Many original garments featured! A splendid resource for Italian Renaissance clothing. Univ de Caen
Patterns for Costume Accessories - $35.00
Levine & McGee. Patterns for period & contemporary accessories, including hats, neckwear, gloves & gauntlets, purses & reticules. Excellent basic patterns. Some post-period material, but a useful resource. Tr pb, 182pp, 83 patterns & 150 illos. Quite Specific Media
Patterns for Theatrical Costume - $35.00
Katherine S Holkeboer. A classic work. Ancient Egypt to 1915. Presents easily-enlarged patterns for accurate period silhouettes, and suggested modifications to sleeves, head-gear, etc. 8½ x11, 350pp, pb. Drama Book.
Patterns of Fashion
Janet Arnold. The cut and construction of clothes for men and women. Photos of actual garments & art showing details. Intricate graphed patterns for enlargement 128p, 15x11.
1560 - 1620 - $39.95
1660 - 1860 - $39.95
1860 - 1940 - $39.95
Volume 4 – Cut and Construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear, and accessories for men and women, 1540-1660. - $49.95
Additional material by Jenny Tiramani & Santini M Levy. Same format, 128 pp, 56 color photos, 86 b/w illus. Quite Special Media.
Olaf Goubitz. Specifically, purses, pouches, bags and cases in the Netherlands. Another of Goubitz’s superb books, showing the actual restored purse plus sketches of its outlines and period illustrations showing similar items being worn. There are also some reconstructed items using modern leather.9” x 11”, perfect-bound, 118pp, brief notes & references, b/w sketches & photos on virtually every page. SPA Itgevers
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock't –$180.00
The Queen’s Servants - $35.00
Caroline Johnson. Similar in format to the companion title The King’s Servants, this book focuses on the garments of gentlewomen attending the queens and their children at the accession of Henry VIII. Includes detailed patterns, practical instructions, line drawings and color photos to provide guidance on constructing this clothing. Tr paper, 55pp, sources, footnotes, index of key terms. Fat Goose Press.
Roman Dress - $35.00
Jonathan Edmonson & Alison Keith, editors. Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture investigates the social symbolism and cultural poetics of dress in the ancient Roman world in the period from 200 BCE-400 CE. The contributors to this volume explore the diffusion of Roman dress protocols at Rome and in the Roman imperial context by looking at Rome's North African provinces in particular. Another unique aspect of this collection is that it goes beyond the male elite to address a wider spectrum of Roman society. Chapters deal with such topics as masculine attire, strategies for self-expression for Roman women within a dress code prescribed by a patriarchal culture, and the complex dynamics of dress in imperial Roman culture, both literary and artistic. This volume further investigates the literary, legal, and iconographic evidence to provide anthropologically-informed readings of Roman clothing. This collection of original essays employs a range of methodological approaches - historical, literary critical, philological, art historical, sociological and anthropological - to offer a thorough discussion of one of the most central issues in Roman culture. Paper, 448pp, b/w photos and line drawings. Univ Toronto Press
Russian Elegance - $35.00
Luisa Yefimova & Tatyana Aleshina. A splendid volume at a breathtakingly low price! This beautifully illustrated book shows examples of Russian dress and accessories from the 15th to the early 20th century. Derived from the collection of the State Historical Museum and covering country and city dress, this book is a fabulous feast of detail. With authoritative essays, this book is an invaluable resource. HC, dw, 192pp, over 200 color photos, glossary, bibliog. Vivays Publishing
Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail - $39.95
Avril Hart and Susan North. Offers a rare, close-up look at the exquisite, labor-intensive details seen in find historical clothing. Drawing from the V&A’s fabulous collection, this book contains a gallery of full color photos, accompanied by clear line drawings showing the construction of the completed garment, and a text that sets each in the context of its time. Oversize trade paper, glossary, selected readings, 224pp. Victoria & Albert Museum
Seventeenth Century Women’s Dress Patterns, Volume 2 - $65
Jenny Tiramani & Susan North. A worthy successor to their earlier volume. Book Two in the V&A’s groundbreaking new series presents 17 patterns for garments and accessories from a 17th-century woman’s wardrobe. It includes patterns for a loose gown, a jacket, a pair of stays and a boned bodice, ivory and wooden busks, shoes, a hat, a stomacher, linen bands and supporters, a bag, and a knife case. It also features a description of the stay-making process. Full step-by-step drawings of the construction sequence are given for each garment to enable the reader to accurately reconstruct them. There are scale patterns and diagrams for making linen and metal thread laces and embroidery designs. Multiple photographs of the objects, close-up construction details and X-ray photography reveal the hidden elements of the clothes, the precise number of layers and the stitches used inside. Hardcover, numerous illustrations, x-rays, and photos, 160pp. Victoria & Albert Museum
Shoes and Pattens: Medieval Finds From
Excavations in London - $37.95
Steampunk Style Jewelry - $24.99
Jean Campbell. Victorian, Fantasy, and mechanical necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. Pairs mechanical found objects with Old World Victorian-style jewelry to create one-of-a-kind pieces that marry romance, technology , and attitude. 20 projects, description of maker’s workshop and tools, basic jewelry-making techniques. Tr pb, 144pp, list of suppliers, color photos & b/w diagrams throughout. Creative Publishing International
Stepping Through Time -$75.00
Olaf Coubitz et alia. Presents a typological catalog of footwear dating from 800-1800 AD, based on his analysis of an important assemblage of shoes recovered from excavations at Dordrecht (Netherlands). Examines evidence for shoe types in prehistoric Europe & the NW provinces of the Roman Empire. Discussion of styles & technology, including height standards, material, patterns, stitches, soles, etc. PB, 396pp, many b/w illus. David Brown
Aimee Kratts. A monograph for costume historians and historical re-enactors. Author abstract: “Images of English embroidered jackets are available online and in print, but to date no one has published a comparative study of these jackets or a reference book of the shapes. In this document, I have gathered information about twenty-five late sixteenth/early seventeenth century jackets and jacket fragments to compare the shapes, embroidery patterns and construction details.” Illus with b/w photos & line drawings. Bibliog, list of reference portraits, notes. 58pp, perfect bound. SCA
Textiles and Clothing - $37.95
Crowfoot, Pritchard & Staniland. Newly reissued. Finds include knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets, and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic, and Italian fabrics. These objects reveal considerable information on the cut and construction of clothing as well. This highly readable account provides a wealth of new insights on fashions, clothing, and textile industries of medieval England and Europe. Trade paper, 250pp, 32 color illus, 132 b/w illus, 91 line drawings. Boydell & Brewer
Threads Fitting for Every Figure - $21.95
A best-of-information guide for stitchers of all levels. Packed with expert information from the most trusted name in sewing, Threads Magazine, this must=have resource covers everything a garment sewer could want. Includes head-to-toe fitting instructions, couture techniques for hard to fit sizes, and sewing instructions for bra and foundation fitting. Hundreds of clear illustrations. Tr paper, 224pp, 200 full color illos, 100 drawings. Taunton
Tudor Child: Clothing and Culture 1485 to 1625 - $60
Jane Huggett & Ninya Mikhaila. Thorough, carefully researched text, and beautiful reproductions of relevant paintings and other period sources.210 color illustrations, 126 detailed illustrations, 53 patterns. The book is illustrated with sumptuous reproductions of paintings from museum collections, specially commissioned photographs of reconstructed garments, and detailed drawings and diagrams showing styles appropriate to different ages, ranks, and eras from 1485 to 1625.
Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th Century Dress - $35.00
Nina Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm-Davies. Techniques & patterns for making historically accurate period clothing. Includes a social history of clothing in the 16th century, discussion of materials used, & a consideration of ‘people’s financial & social relationships with their clothes.’ Considerable emphasis on clothing of ordinary people. Advice on choosing materials, construction methods, and sewing kit. Based on 15 years of practical experience in making period costume for daily use at historic sites, this book promises to be a valuable tool & resource for many years to come. Tr pb, 160pp, 80 illos, 100 line drawings, 36 patterns with step-by-step instructions & photos of final garments. Quite Specific Media
Unveiling the Truth, Volume One - Easy Hairstyles -$5.00
Barbara Segal. Hairstyling Tools and easy hair fashions from 600 to 1500. Perfect-bound pb, 50pp, b/w illus. SCA
Unveiling the Truth, Volume Two –Complex Hairstyles $5.00
Barbara Segal. Complex hair fashions before 1500. Perfect-bound pb, 50pp, b/w illus. SCA
Jason Maclochlainn. Create perfect, historically accurate Victorian men’s wear, from elegant morning coats to fashionable tapered trousers. Contains a comprehensive introduction to the world of the 19th-century tailor, with essential information on authentic techniques, tools, and material. Patterns from throughout the period will help you try out your skills. Oversize trade paperback, 159pp, b/w period illus, color plates, modern sketches, patterns, layout diagrams, index. St Martin’s Griffin
Christina Krupp & Carolyn Priest-Dorman. Covers women’s garb in Northern Europe 450-1000 CE, focusing on Frisians, Angles, Franks, Balts, Vikings, & Finns. Although brief, this remains an excellent, basic source. 71pp, pamphlet. SCA
Women’s Work: Embroidery in Colonial Boston - $40.00
Pamela A Parmal. Charming us with their whimsy and conjuring a warm domesticity, embroideries from the colonial era also help illuminate the lives of the women who made them. Colonial women kept these works (which could take years to complete and used materials brought great distances) and displayed them proudly. This book tells the stories of six women and how needlework shaped their lives. Not only did it promote the silk trade, it allowed women to sell supplies and patterns, and run schools to train young girls in this fine art. HC, dw, 184pp, 120 color illus. Museum of Fine Arts.
Woven Into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland - $49.95
Else Ostergaard. The book offers an account of the 1921 find of textiles in Herjolfsnaes, Greenland. The garments had been used as swaddling to wrap around corpses. The weather conditions preserved the textiles extremely well, & the result was a spectacular find, and amazing insights into sewing & weaving techniques as well as the materials used in the garments’ manufacture. Heavily illustrated in color & b/w. HC, index, bibliog.,