Poison Pen Press

Costume Books


 

SALE – new lower price – SALE!!

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza - $99.50

Roberta Orsi Landini, Bruna Niccoli. Italian, with facing English text. Lavish color photos of period portraits focus heavily on the elaborate garments. A brief biography of Eleonora is followed by chapters on her style, costume in Medici ceremonies, and surviving clothing. Further chapters concentrate on individual garments, divided by types, such as: petticoat, farthingale and doublet, gown, jerkin and maternity gown; slippers, shoes, stockings and garters, etc. Includes chapters on tailors & embroiderers, and Florentine textile production. Lush, amazing; comparable to Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe. HC, dust jacket, 252p, glossary, list of illos, biblio, 35p chronological inventory of Eleonora’s wardrobe, list of documents cited, family tree of Cosimo I de’ Medici. Copious notes follow each chapter. 9 ½ x12 ¼. Univ de Caen

 

Bedlah, Baubles, and Beads - $21.00

Dawn Devine. Focuses on the ‘cabaret’ style so common in the US. Discusses designing & crafting the elaborate bra & belts sets worn by belly dancers. Full of useful & thought-provoking information for the dance costumer. Tr pb; spiral bound, 132pp, biblio & resources list. Ibexa Press

 

Chinese Minority Costume - $39.95

Oversized photo book illustrating traditional ethnic attire of China’s 55 minority groups. Provides overview of men’s & women’s garb, with brief explanations of how clothes are made. Bilingual, 218pp, photos almost every page, very brief biblio. China Intercontinental

 

Chinese Traditional Costumes & Ornaments - $39.95

Zang Yingchun. Similar in format to Chinese Minority Costume, this volume is chronologically arranged. Using statues, funerary sculpture, paintings, and extant garments & objects, the book recreates clothing of historical China. Covers Qin (21st century BCE) to modern Republic of China (1949 CE). Lavishly illo’d, with color photos on almost every page. Tr pb, 190 pp. China Intercontinental Press

 

Corset: a Cultural History - $26.00

Valerie Steele. Considers the corset both as a garment and as a social icon. Also discusses why women wore the garment, despite criticism by many powerful male authority figures, and why they abandoned it. Although primarily post-period, there is some discussion of corsets prior to the 17th century. Oversize trade pb, with numerous black-and-white illustrations, etchings, patterns, and many full-color pictures as well. Includes material on male corsets. 199pp, index, select bibliography, chapter notes. Yale University Press

Costumes & Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications - $75.00
Sylvia Moss. Professional-level costumers will gain much from this text, which discusses how to create costumes, with an emphasis on man-made materials—adhesives, coatings, certain paints; natural latex rubber, glass, clay, and wax; and polyester, vinyl, acrylic, and epoxy—many of which, the reader is strongly cautioned, are toxic. Part I, therefore, offers guidelines and safety advice for their use. Includes instructions on the making of full body casts and live head casts. Part II is divided into two sections: Materials to Apply to Costumes and Materials for Forming Costumes, and discusses materials tested by the author. To accommodate every budget, and to help costumers evaluate new materials, brand and generic names are given. Charts detail the effects of dry cleaning and laundering on adhesives, coatings, colorings, and metallizers. Part III discusses the creation of various costumes and costume pieces (b&w and color plates). Part IV (the Appendix) contains information on solvents, removing stains, and a metric/US measurement conversion table. A glossary, list of distributors, and bibliography round out the section. HC, 464pp. Quite Specific Media

Costume 1066 to the Present - $19.95
John Peacock. A guide to English costume design and history. This handy guide is divided by monarchs’ reigns, and shows primarily upper-class attire. Each page features eight outfits, four male and four female, and includes useful notes detailing important or unusual features of each garment. Sketches are based on surviving clothing, contemporary paintings, and photos. 8½ x11, 135 pages. Thames & Hudson.

Costuming from the Hip - $21.00

Dawn Devine. This book is a comprehensive reference for all types of Middle Eastern dance costuming. Readers will like the over 200 illustrations, historical patterns, construction techniques and the hundreds of hints and tips. Takes reader step-by-step through body measurement, costume research, pattern layouts, fitting, and accessorizing. Tr pb; spiral bound, 114pp, biblio & resources list. Ibexa Press

Cut My Cote - $8.95
Dorothy K Burnham. Brief book illustrating a number of tunic-like garments from a variety of periods and cultures. Includes very basic patterns for cutting the garments. 36p, paper. University of Toronto

Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600 to 1900 - $75.95
Nora Waugh. Complete plans for executing & tailoring 27 patterns. Cloth. Routledge.

Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600 to 1930 - $95.95
Similar to men's volume. Patterns taken from actual dresses. Routledge.

Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450 (2nd Edition): Medieval Finds >From Excavations in London - $37.95
Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard. Catalogues, discusses, and illustrates over 1780 medieval dress accessories recovered from excavations in London. Girdles, buckles, brooches, buttons, hair accessories, pins, beads, chains, pendants, rings, purses, cosmetic sets, and needle cases were among the wealth of well-preserved finds recovered from these excavations in the City of London. The excavations provide an accurate framework within which to date the recovered items. This book presents the opportunity for statistical analysis of dress accessories based on the sheer abundance of detailed information. Catalog entries for all 1784 finds. A treasure-trove of detailed historical information, it offers sociological insight into the clothing choices of the "ordinary man/woman" during the three hundred years from 1150 through 1450 AD. The tome is a "must" for any serious medievalist and/or costumer. Fully illustrated: twelve colored plates, numerous black-and-white photos, hundreds of detailed line drawings. Notes, charts, extensive bibliography. 410 pp, pb. Boydell & Brewer Press.

Dress in Anglo-Saxon England - $60.00
Gale R Owen-Crocker. Revised & expanded edition. Considerably updated, this new edition focuses on English dress from the fifth to the eleventh centuries. It draws evidence from archeology, text and art (manuscripts, ivories, metalwork, stone sculpture, mosaics), and also from re-enactors’ experience. It examines archaeological textiles, cloth production and the significance of imported cloth, and foreign fashions. Dress is discussed as a marker of gender, ethnicity, status and social role – in the context of a pagan burial, dress for holy orders, bequests of clothing, commissioning a kingly wardrobe, and much else… (Pub note) 12 b/w, 13 color plates, 140 b/w drawings, glossary of clothing terms, possible cutting plan for 11th century gown. HC, 408 pp, extensive biblio & index. Boydell & Brewer

Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing - $25.00
Carole Collier Frick. Provides the first in-depth study of the Italian Renaissance fashion industry, concentrating on Florence, arguably Renaissance Italy’s most style-conscious city. After a detailed account of the fashion industry itself; she analyzes the guilds, craftsmen, and tradespeople involved in the design and assemblage of the outfits. She proceeds to a discussion of the elite families of Florence who, in order to maintain their social standing and family honor, made continuous clothing purchases for themselves and their households. These ongoing – and frequently escalating – purchases fueled the growth of the fashion industry. Sumptuary laws, which might have limited the display of many of these magnificent fabrics or clothing items, were oftimes honored more in intention than in realityContemporary illustrations provide a rich counterpoint to the text. Appendices, glossary, select bibliography, index. 347 pp, pb. Johns Hopkins Univ Press

Early Highland Dress – CD - $12.95
Matthew A.C. Newsome. "When one begins to research the history of Highland dress, it quickly becomes apparent that prior to the 17th century reliable information becomes hard to find…the historic record is not nearly as complete for this earlier period …In this little volume, I hope to share the fruits of that research, dispel some myths, and with any luck inspire the reader to further investigation…" The author’s own words speak eloquently. Includes material on wrapping the Great Kilt, Pre-Culloden Tartans, Gaelic footwear. Acrobat readable (included).
Scotpress

Elizabethan Costuming: For the Years 1550 to 1580 – Temporarily Out of Stock
Janet Winter & Carolyn Schultz. 2nd edition. Patterns, fabrics, underwear. 200p, paper. Other Times.

Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques - $20.00

Dawn Devine. This ‘workshop in a book’ demonstrates the techniques for transforming a lingerie bra into a finished costume piece. Easy-to-follow processed is presented through clear, step-by-step photos and illustrations. An excellent resource for novice sewers and professional designers alike. Tr pb, saddle-stapled, 64pp. Ibexa Press

Evolution of Fashion; Pattern & Cut 1066 to 1930 - $40.00
Hill & Bucknell. Male & female outfit for each monarch's reign/20 yr interval. Patterns 1/8"=1". Brief discussion of fabrics, accessories, underwear. 222pp, 10x13, paper. Drama.

Fashion in Medieval France - $85.00

Sarah-Grace Heller. Medieval French culture supplies the context for this case study of ‘systematic fashion’, demonstrating desire for novelty, rejection of the old in favor of the new, and criticism of outrageous display. Texts from the 12th & 13th centuries describe how cleverly-cut garments or unique possessions make a character distinctive; they even offer advice on how to look attractive on a budget, and spin fantasies of gaining enough spending money to shop for oneself. Such descriptions suggest fashion’s presence, yet accepted notions date the birth of Western fashion to the mid-14th century revolution in men’s clothing styles. A fashion system was surely present prior to this ‘revolution’ in styles, to facilitate such changes: abundant evidence for the existence of such a system is cogently set out in this study. HC, dj, 206pp, 13p biblio, index. Boydell & Brewer

Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince - $35.00
Stella Mary Newton. In this rich resource for an under-represented period, Ms Newton discusses costume in considerable detail, with emphasis on the dramatic & extravagant fashion of the time. In addition to visual evidence, she also draws heavily on court accounts, chronicles, & poetry. Although basically English in focus, there are many references to clothing on the Continent. Photos of sculpture, portraits, drawings. 5 appendices, biblio. Tr pb, 150p. Boydell & Brewer .

From Woad to Blue - $5.00

            Christine Krupp. Takes us through the classical references & evidence for woad use in Medieval Europe, then covers growing woad (period & modern practices) couching (fermenting the woad), the chemistry of woad, and finishes with dyeing recipes, both historic and modern. Appendix: classical references, woad’s use as art pigment. Biblo, resources. Pb, saddle-stapled, 68pp. Some b/w illus. SCA

From The Neck Up - $25.00
Most complete book on hat-making now available. Techniques explained step-by-step. More than 400 illos. Historical & modern patterns, list of suppliers. MadHatter Press.

From Turban to Toe Ring - $21.00

Dawn Devine. Explores the various layers and elements that compose the tribal-style costume. From jewelry & cosmetics to cholis, skirts, and pants, this book is loaded with directions for designing & making garments. With over 300 illustrations & diagrams, this is an essential addition to your reference library. Tr pb; spiral bound, 96ppbiblio & resources list, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press

 

Glove Making: The Art & Craft  - $16.00

Gwen Emlyn-Jones. A basic, comprehensive book on glove making, including leather & fur items, lined & unlined, plus the details of design, fitting, & construction. PB, 112p, b/w illus. Lacis        

Headdresses of the Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries - $5.00

Marie Vibbert (Lyonnete Vibert) In this pamphlet, Vibert describes in loving detail hoods, templets, and cauls, and their evolution into the elaborate horned and veiled headdresses most people think of as medieval. Separate chapters describe constructing cauls, internally supported cauls (‘the heart-shaped headdress’), and hennins. Pb, saddle-stapled, 52pp, biblio, endnotes, annotated list of illustrations. SCA

 

High Fashion in the Church: The Place of Church Vestments in the History of Art from the 9th to the 19th Century – hc  $150

Pauline Johnstone. The decoration of church vestments, the ceremonial garments worn by the clergy at the celebration of the Mass, has always been a matter of high fashion. The crafts of silk weaving and embroidery, which provide the technical means for the decoration of these garments, have held a prominent place in the changing fashions in the arts since the early Middle Ages. Since that time they have been used in the service of the Church as well as for secular purposes. Appendix, glossary, bibliography, index. Hardcover, 207pp, 102 color illos, 176 b/w illos. Quite Specific Media

Hispanic Costume, 1480 - 1530 - $29.00
Ruth Matilda Anderson. Covering an important transitional period in Iberian history, this book is essential for students of the area. Material on both outer and inner garments is supplied. Covers every aspects of dress, from headgear and hair styles to shoes and hose. Discussions are accompanied by a multitude of photographs of sculpture and period art. Exceptionally clear pictures make this a very useful title. Impressive notes, biblio, and index. Cloth, 269 pp, 569 b/w, 8 color illos. Hispanic Society.

I See By Your Outfit: Order Robes, Historical and Modern - $5.00
Melinda Sherring (Baroness Eowyn Amberdrake). Explores within an historical framework the robes and badges/sashes of the three major kinds of Orders of Chivalry: the military/religious orders (Knights Templar, Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, Order of Teutonic Knights); the courtly secular orders (Order of the Garter, Order of the Star, Order of the Dragon); and the orders of merit. Gives a grounded, historic perspective to the robes and badges of office developed for SCA. Line illustrations. Notes and bibliography. Annotated list of interviews. 40 pp, 5½ by 8½ saddle-stitched pb. SCA.

Kimono: Fashioning Culture - $26.95
Liza Dalby. Delves into the history, aesthetics, and cultural and social mores of kimono from its seventh century Chinese origins to its current role as the national dress of Japan. With impeccable scholarship, Dalby contends that "dress can never be analyzed separately from the universe of possibilities that shape its particular historical meaning" and that clothing, wearer, and culture are nowhere more integrated into a cohesive whole than in Japan. Part I explores this interplay of clothing and culture, while Part II moves on to a study of kimono in the modern world. Part III looks at two important developments of kimono: Heian imperial court dress of the ninth to the eleventh centuries and Genroku urban and mercantile traditions of the seventeenth century. The final chapter of Part III, Kimono and Geisha, looks at length at these so uniquely Japanese traditions. Dalby’s passion for her subject matter comes through in her lucid, engaging prose. Lavish photographs and illustrations highlight the beauty of kimono. The narrative explores the subtle nuances of color, design, material, and decoration that clearly mark the social and economic status of the wearer for anyone with the knowledge needed to interpret the signs. Illustration and narrative notes, extensive bibliography, index and glossary. 384 PP, 8¼ by 8¼ inches pb. University of Washington Press.

Little Costume Workbook Series - $8.95 (each)
Bonnie Ambrose. These provide lively, simple patterns and instructions for basic garments, plus variations and modifications thereof. Saddle-stapled mini-books, 4x6. Drama Books.

Little Bodice Construction
Little Corset Construction

 

Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns & Ideas for Modern Wear - $28.00
John Marshall. Here is all the information you need to construct Japanese clothes, including instructions for 14 traditional garments, with patterns that can be sized to fit. Details the basic building blocks for garments, including sleeve shapes, collars, hems, lining, and padding, as well as a choice between authentic Japanese techniques or simplified methods that achieve the same look. There is information on using a variety of fabric widths, and a chapter on the care and storage of the garments. Tr pb, dust jacket, brief biblio and sources list, metric conversion chart. 130pp Kodansha International

Making Elizabethan Gloves - $5.00

            Franchesa V Havas. After a brief discussion of the status of glove wear and the use of gloves in period, the author proceeds to instruct us in the mystery of taking proper measurements, creating a pattern and mock-up glove, and then on to the actual glove construction. A unique resource. 13pp annotated biblio. Pb, saddle-stapled, 56pp, many b/w illus & patterns. SCA

 

Making Latex Clothes - $27.95

Sian-Kate Mooney. A unique book on the secrets of making latex clothes – for dressmakers, fashion designers, and costume makers in theatre, film, and television. The first practical work  on to make the most of this innovative material. Written by a respected designer and leading maker of latex garments. Includes basic techniques, step-by-step projects, finishing, wearing, & storage instructions. 112p, tr pb, brief source list, 6 color illos, b/w diagrams and clear instructions. Quite Specific Media

 

Maternity Fashion - $22.50

Doretta Davanzo Poli. A world history of maternity fashion from 1266 to 1980. Hardcover, 119 pp, 83 color photos & illus, 76 b/w illus. Quite Specific Media

 

Medieval Clothing & Textiles Volume One - $49.95

Owen-Crocker & Netherton, eds. First volume in series, interdisciplinary in approach. Broad geographical & temporal coverage. Volume contains Anglo-Saxon embroidery, regulation of clerical dress, the tippet, evidence for dress & textiles in English wills. HC, 192pp, b/w illus, short bk reviews.  Boydell & Brewer

 

Medieval Clothing & Textiles Volume Two – $47.95

Owen-Crocker & Netherton, eds. Articles: Dress & Accessories in the ‘The Wooing of Becfhola’, Embroidered Word: Text in the Bayeux Tapestry, Making Textiles in 12th Century French Romance, Paris in the Int’l Textile Markets of 13th/14th Centuries, Apparel & Impoverishment in Medieval & Early Modern England, Textile cleaning Techniques in Renaissance Europe, Dual Identity of the English Embroidered Jacket. HC, dust jacket, 190p. Index, ‘Recent Books of Interest, 23 illos , extensive notes. Boydell & Brewer

 

Medieval Clothing & Textiles   Volume Three  $55.00

 Netherton & Owen-Crocker, eds. Articles: Cushioning Medieval Life: Domestic Textiles in Anglo-Saxon England, Matter of Style: Clerical Vestments in the Anglo-Saxon Church, Saints in Split-Stitch: Representations of Saints in Opus Anglicanum Vestments, Anti-Red Shift-To the Dark Side: Colour Changes in Flemish Luxury Woollens, Finishing of English Woollens, Poverty & Richly Decorated Garments: a Re-evaluation of their Significance, ‘Set on Yowre Hondys”: 15th Century instructions for Fingerloop Braiding, Tiny Textiles Hidden In Books… Multiple Strand Bookmarkers, ‘She Hath Over Grown All that Ever She Hath’: Children’s Clothing in the Lisle Letters. Also includes a list of recent books of interest, and the contents of previous volumes. HC, dw, 221pp, index. Tables, b/w photos & illus. Boydell & Brewer    

Medieval Costume & How to Recreate It - $11.95
Dorothy Hartley. This clear-cut, accurate & richly detailed guide takes an effective & fresh approach to the history of costume, classifying clothes & accessories along social lines. Garments from the wardrobes of peasants & nobility appear in over 200 period illustrations & patterns. 12th – 15th century. 142pp, pb
Dover

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant - Making Common Garments 1200-1500 - $45.00
Sara Thursfield. Excellent new book with patterns for costumers' use. "Thursfield has done what no other book author has done--she has put the entire wardrobe of the Middle Ages out to be interpreted by costumers. Underwear, outerwear, headgear. It's all there." --Mary Denise Smith, Costume & Dressmaker Press. 224pp, 400 line drawings (including 121 patterns). 16 b&w, 4 color plates. Trade paperback. Quite Specific Media.

 

Men’s Garments 1830-1900 - $30.00
R.I. Davis. Second revised edition. Discussion of men’s garments, with patterns and instruction on cutting. Also includes tailoring suggestions to enhance the proper "look". 175 illos. 16o pp, pb. Players Press.

Men’s 17th & 18th Century Costume, Cut & Fashion - $65.00
R.I. Davis. Very similar in design to Hunnisett’s excellent books for women. The author’s experience working for the British theater is amply demonstrated in this work. 40 complete patterns, over 200 illos, and 40 color plates. Hard cover, 224pp. Players Press.

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza - $99.50

Roberta Orsi Landini, Bruna Niccoli. Italian, with facing English text. Lavish color photos of period portraits focus heavily on the elaborate garments. A brief biography of Eleonora is followed by chapters on her style, costume in Medici ceremonies, and surviving clothing. Further chapters concentrate on individual garments, divided by types, such as: petticoat, farthingale and doublet, gown, jerkin and maternity gown; slippers, shoes, stockings and garters, etc. Includes chapters on tailors & embroiderers, and Florentine textile production. Lush, amazing; comparable to Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe. HC, dust jacket, 252p, glossary, list of illos, biblio, 35p chronological inventory of Eleonora’s wardrobe, list of documents cited, family tree of Cosimo I de’ Medici. Copious notes follow each chapter. 9 ½ x12 ¼. Univ de Caen

Old Irish & Highland Dress CD - $12.95
H.F. McClintock. Facsimile of 1943 edition. Thorough discussion of this hard-to-locate material, with references from 1169 onward. Many b/w illos, some also in color. The source and date of each illustration is cited. 188pp. Scotpress.
This title is no longer available in book form, only as a CD.

Pants for the Dance - $10.00

Dawn Devine. Addresses the exciting design possibilities for one of the most ubiquitous but unsung garments in the dancer’s wardrobe: pants! This book introduces a simple method for using body measurements to draft patterns that fit. Go beyond the basic harem style and explore a variety of options for creating pants for male and female dancers 8/12x7 pb, saddle-stapled, 40pp, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press

 

Patterns for Costume Accessories - $35.00

Levine & McGee. Patterns for period & contemporary accessories, including hats, neckwear, gloves & gauntlets, purses & reticules. Excellent basic patterns. Some post-period material, but a useful resource. Tr pb, 182pp, 83 patterns & 150 illos. Quite Specific Media

Patterns for Theatrical Costume - $35.00
Katherine S Holkeboer. A classic work. Ancient Egypt to 1915. Presents easily-enlarged patterns for accurate period silhouettes, and suggested modifications to sleeves, head-gear, etc. 8½ x11, 350pp, pb. Drama Book.

Patterns of Fashion
Janet Arnold. The cut and construction of clothes for men and women. Photos of actual garments & art showing details. Intricate graphed patterns for enlargement 128p, 15x11.

1560 - 1620 - $39.95
1660 - 1860 - $39.95
1860 - 1940 - $39.95

Period Costume for Stage & Screen - $59.00 (each)
Jean Hunnisett. A thorough guide for creating women's clothing. Historically accurate patterns adapted for modern-day figures. Cloth. Players Press.

Vol. 1 (1500 - 1800)
Vol. 2 (1800 - 1909)
Vol. 3 (Medieval - 1500)

Persian Court Costume and Dance in the 16th Century - $5.00
Hollie Williams/Mistress Blodwen ferch Maergred. "Persian costume is one of the most well-documented styles of Middle Eastern costume of the SCA time period. This article is a basic overview of the costume found in the court illuminations of 16th century Persia. … Because dance is a performing art, it is very difficult to reconstruct. Using visual depictions of dance and music from the era, it is possible to take a scholarly look at the art form of the female court dancers of medieval Persia…" (Author’s note). 40pp, 8-1/2x5-1/2, saddle-stapled. Biblio, list of terms, b/w sketches & line drawings. SCA

Purses in Pieces: Archeological Finds of late medieval and 16th-century leather purses - $40.00

Olaf Goubitz. Specifically, purses, pouches, bags and cases in the Netherlands. Another of Goubitz’s superb books, showing the actual restored purse plus sketches of its outlines and period illustrations showing similar items being worn. There are also some reconstructed items using modern leather.9” x 11”, perfect-bound, 118pp, brief notes & references, b/w sketches & photos on virtually every page. SPA Itgevers

 

Royal & Historic Gloves & Shoes -  $28.00

W B Redfern. Gloves & shoes viewed from a historical perspective from medieval times, where their main function was as an ornamental accessory of church and state, through the 18th century. Reprint of 1904 title. Color cover, b/w interior illus. PB, 202pp. Lacis                    

 

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock't – $165.00
Janet Arnold. This lavish book represents the pinnacle of Janet Arnold’s research. A massive volume (10 x 13, 372 pages), it contains full transcripts of the inventories of Queen Elizabeth’s clothing preserved in the British Library and Public Records Office, and the Folger Library in Washington D.C. It includes contemporary descriptions and portraits, designs for jewelry and embroidery, accounts of gifts of clothing to and from Elizabeth. It also describes the organization and staff of Elizabeth’s Wardrobe of Robes. 460 black-and-white photographs or portraits, miniatures, tomb sculpture, et cetera. In addition, the book contains extensive notes and a discussion of the various craftspeople who produced the garments, shoes, jewels, gloves, and purses used by Her Majesty. Quite Specific Media.

 

 

 

 

Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping - $30.00
Chantal Boulanger. The author warns, "Draping is an art and a technique that requires some training… Learning how to drape saris took me a lot of time, patience, and perseverance." With this caveat, Boulanger presents the results of her extensive research: instructions for over 100 different styles of draping, reflecting geographical location, sex, social status, and sometimes religion. Many of these draping styles have not been studied or described previously, and are in danger of being totally forgotten, as the young adopt ‘citified’ costume. Includes men’s and women’s garments. B/w sketches on every page attempt to guide the user. The practical, interesting, varied, and often elegant garments shown here will reward the diligent student’s efforts. Spiral bound, 8-1/2x11, 131pp. Brief biblio, appendix of standard fabric lengths used in various types of saris. Shakti Press

 

 

Sheep and Man - $195 – see ReferenceTools

 

Shoes and Pattens: Medieval Finds From Excavations in London - $37.95
Francis Grew and Margrethe de Neergaard. Since the 1970s and ’80s, more than 2,000 shoes have been found in waterlogged conditions along the north bank of the Thames. All are in well-dated archaeological contexts, making it possible to trace the development of shoe fashion between the 12th and 14th centuries. With 27 B&W photos of the finds and 91 line illustrations showing the shoes’ and pattens’ construction, this book is a treasure trove for recreationists and theatrical costumers, although it is equally of interest to archaeologists and scholars. The introduction to this, the 2nd edition, discusses more recent finds and addresses issues that received too little attention in the 1st edition: the practice of making new shoes from older parts and the use of inserts; corrections to the terminology. Also, European discoveries in the ’80s and ’90s now make it possible to place shoe fashion in a broader context. Tr paper, 152pp, bibliography. Boydell & Brewer

 

 

Skirting the Issues - $10.00

Dawn Devine. Skirts are an important garment type for dancers, no matter what style of costume they choose. This booklet is filled with design ideas that go beyond the standard ‘three-panel’ skirt. From gores to godets, tiers to panels, this book includes directions for turning your body measurements into customized patterns. 81/2x7 pb, saddle-stapled,48pp, b/w sketches. Ibexa Press

 

Stepping Through Time  -$75.00

Olaf Coubitz et alia. Presents a typological catalog of footwear dating from 800-1800 AD, based on his analysis of an important assemblage of shoes recovered from excavations at Dordrecht (Netherlands). Examines evidence for shoe types in prehistoric Europe & the NW provinces of the Roman Empire. Discussion of styles & technology, including height standards, material, patterns, stitches, soles, etc. PB, 396pp, many b/w illus. David Brown

 

Style File: a visual vocabulary of Middle Eastern dance costume - $12.00

Dawn Devine. Designed with the beginning dancer in mind, this illustrated handbook helps you to identify the most popular styles of dance attire. From specific ethnic ensembles to popular stylistic themes, this booklet defines and describes a broad range of costumes, making it a very useful reference tool. 8 ½ x 7, pb, saddle-stapled, 40pp. Ibexa Press

 

Juan de Alcega’s Tailor’s Pattern Book, 1589 - $40.00
Facsimile of the second edition, with translation by Jean Pain & Cecilia Bainton, introduction and notes by J L Nevinson. Reprinted from Ruth Bean’s 1978 edition of Libro de Geometria, Pratica y Traca, one of the earliest tailor’s books extant. This important book contains 135 tailoring patterns, covering 23 kinds of dress, male and female. It includes some clerical garb. Includes bibliography, glossary, and a table for converting fractions of ells (a period measurement) into centimeters.Although the patterns show piece layout, and give rough measurements of cloth width and hints on making optimum use of cloth, these patterns are not for the faint of heart, since they show neither seam addition, darts, notches, gathering points, nor any other guide marks. For the expert garment maker. Quite Specific Media Books.

Textiles and Clothing - $37.95
Crowfoot, Pritchard & Staniland. Newly reissued. Finds include knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets, and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic, and Italian fabrics. These objects reveal considerable information on the cut and construction of clothing as well. This highly readable account provides a wealth of new insights on fashions, clothing, and textile industries of medieval England and Europe. Trade paper, 250pp, 32 color illus, 132 b/w illus, 91 line drawings. Boydell & Brewer

Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th Century Dress - $35.00

Nina Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm-Davies. Techniques & patterns for making historically accurate period clothing. Includes a social history of clothing in the 16th century, discussion of materials used, & a consideration of ‘people’s financial & social relationships with their clothes.’ Considerable emphasis on clothing of ordinary people. Advice on choosing materials, construction methods, and sewing kit. Based on 15 years of practical experience in making period costume for daily use at historic sites, this book promises to be a valuable tool & resource for many years to come. Tr pb, 160pp, 80 illos, 100 line drawings, 36 patterns with step-by-step instructions & photos of final garments. Quite Specific Media

A Veiled Reference - $5.00
Lisa Ford, Theresa Sherman, Melinda Sherbring. The 1st section of this book discusses Medieval & Renaissance women’s veils in Western Europe. The 2nd contains information on the various styles: how to construct, wear, & secure them, with patterns, sketches, & photos. Each example is carefully referenced to its historical source. The final section considers the history & use of pins, especially in headgear. A remarkably thorough & useful pamphlet. 56p. SCA.

Victorian Costuming 1840 to 1865 – Temporarily out of stock
Winter & Schultz. Similar in format & contents to Elizabethan Costuming. paper. Other Times.

Viking Clothing – Temporarily Out of Stock

            Thor Ewing. This accessible new book is the first to tackle the question of what the Vikings wore, drawing on evidence from art, archeology, literature, & linguistics to arrive at a fresh understanding of the nature of Viking clothing. Includes an overview of textiles & dyeing, an exploration of cloth production & clothing in the context of the society as a whole. Includes a detailed consideration of male & female outfits & a new interpretation of the suspended dress. Biblio, index, numerous b/w photos, diagrams, patterns, & contemporary drawings, 14 color photos. Tr Pb, 192pp. Tempus

What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America - $65.00
Linda Baumgarten. Presents an unparalleled look at eighteenth and nineteenth century garments from the premiere collection of Colonial Williamsburg. The photographs are beautifully presented; in many cases, each photograph’s caption offers a description of the clothing, a history of the garment’s provenance, and a scholarly commentary putting the item in historical and sociologic context. The clothes range from the velvet and silk formal wear of the upper classes to cotton and wool garments for the working classes and slaves. The author’s scholarly text enhances our enjoyment of the magnificent illustrations. In thoughtful prose, she examines the psychology, the sociology, and the history of clothing from this period. The author, curator of textiles and costumes at Colonial Williamsburg, draws on contemporary written descriptions and on actual costumes of the period to analyze what Americans in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries considered fashionable, attractive, and appropriate for their status/occupation. 355 color photos, 36 b/w illustrations. Timeline, selected bibliography, index. 9½ by 12 ", 265 pp, hc. Yale University Press

Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East - $51.95
Jennifer Scarce. Examines the evolution of women’s dress within the geographic and historic confines of the Ottoman Empire. Now, for the first time, the interested reader can have an in-depth look at the variety and richness of women’s clothing in the many regions governed by the Ottomans during the six centuries of their reign. This scholarly work discusses both the distinct differences and the underlying similarities of feminine apparel in the diverse cultural and geographic territories that formed the Ottoman Empire. The author’s knowledgeable prose is amply illustrated by one hundred twenty-eight black-and-white photos. Twenty-one diagrams show cutting patterns and layout for select items of clothing. List of illustrations, list of diagrams, chapter notes, select bibliography. 192 pp, pb. Routledge

Women’s Garb in Northern Europe - $5.00

Christina Krupp & Carolyn Priest-Dorman. Covers women’s garb in Northern Europe 450-1000 CE, focusing on Frisians, Angles, Franks, Balts, Vikings, & Finns. Although brief, this remains an excellent, basic source. 71pp, pamphlet. SCA

 

Worldwide History of Dress - $100.00

Patricia R Anawalt. Every notable geographical region, historical period, and style of dress is covered here. The book discusses all aspects of dress and accessories, including face and body modification. More than 1,000 illustrations include both vintage and modern-day photos of local people in local clothing, color plates of museum quality artifacts, historic paintings and other artwork, line drawings, and more than 50 specially commissioned maps. Hardcover, 608pp, 1,100 illus (800 in color). Thames & Hudson.

Woven Into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland - $49.95
Else Ostergaard. The book offers an account of the 1921 find of textiles in Herjolfsnaes, Greenland. The garments had been used as swaddling to wrap around corpses. The weather conditions preserved the textiles extremely well, & the result was a spectacular find, and amazing insights into sewing & weaving techniques as well as the materials used in the garments’ manufacture. Heavily illustrated in color & b/w. HC, index, biblio,


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